The original essay was split into two parts. This is the second part of my holiday trip to Singapore and Malaysia, done with my good friend Darryl in 1980. Part One was posted in August.
To recap, after celebrating a cricket match win, Darryl and I decided to go on a holiday overseas. As young men in our 20's we felt it was the thing to do, like all young people of that time, if not still today.
We left Perth for Singapore on 22nd August 1980 and was met by my school 'buddy' Patrick on arrival, who I had not seen since leaving primary school in 1969.
In writing this essay I had decided to transcribe my notes straight from my diary (typed set in italics) and after each journal entry I would write a backdrop story if it required a little more context or embellishment.
Just recollecting from the last entry made in Part One of this essay, Darryl and I met two girls, who were complete strangers at a major shopping complex, called Sungei Wang, in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. We had dinner with them that evening, after which they invited us over to their apartment. Things were getting a little uncomfortable, after they managed to get hold of our passports at which time we said that we had to leave to return to my cousin's house, where we were staying while in Kuala Lumpur.
Before reminiscing further into the second part of our holidays, I recalled a funny story which happened during Day 9 of our trip. It did not make it into Part One but thought in hindsight to include it here.
The incident at Sungei Wang Plaza was it little embarrassing for me and I believe subconsciously I had left it out when it came time to updating the day’s events in my travel diary.
Having relived the day in my mind and 'replaying' the events for this essay, and at the expense of my embarrassment 41 years ago, I've decided to share it now.
I mentioned in Part One that I had suffered a bout of diarrhoea that Saturday (Day 9). I told Darryl that I had to visit the public toilet at the Sungai Wang Plaza that afternoon. While not the best place to visit at any time, when nature calls, you don't have much of a choice.
At the entrance of the public toilets was an old woman seated behind a counter selling toilet paper. Two neatly pulled sheets off a toilet paper roll for 10 sens (Malaysian coinage), was the advertised cost. I may have bought a $1 Ringgit's worth that afternoon. Darry by then had left me to wait in the shopping centre. My suggested ten minutes wait time turned into a twenty wait, when Darryl walked back and found me locked in my toilet cubical. After he had enquired about my predicament, I sheepishly admitted that I had run out of tissues and couldn't, but more like didn't want to see the old woman at the counter to get more. So I waited until he would arrive. I was so glad he did.
After forging a plan to get more toilet paper, Darryl then goes off looking to buy a box of tissues in the shopping centre. The old woman behind the counter was not impressed when Darryl returned with a full box of tissues in hand. Understandable when you consider the amount of money she would have lost had we bought $10 Ringgits worth of sheets from her. The box of tissues only cost one or two Ringgits. It did the job and saved the day.*
Day 10 - 31st August. Sunday.
Went to church 10:30am. Raining. Did nothing . Went to coffee shop and had a few drinks. Stayed one and a half hours, came back and rested. Went out to Sungei Wang for dinner.
Caught taxi after waiting for sometime. Was supposed to leave for Penang at 10:00pm and because of derailment, trip was postponed.
Sungei Wang Plaza, KL [Source: travelvui.com. No copyright infringement is intended]
The rain that Sunday morning was pelting down, typical of the weather in cities near to the Equator like Kuala Lumpur. After the heavy downpour, the rain stopped as sudden as it started, leaving the city steaming with the high humidity. Darryl and I took it easy that morning and ventured to a stall just outside the hotel. We settled ourselves down in the coffee shop and ordered the traditional teh tarik (translated as 'pulled' tea in Malay) and some Malay cakes or kueh. There we stayed chatting away the morning and planning the next leg of our trip, until another a period of rest beckoned.
While we still had time before leaving Malaysia’s capital we decided that evening to return again to Sungei Wang. There were not many options by way of shopping centres in KL, unlike today. It must be said however, that the food court was the main attraction with the variety of local cuisines to choose from. We ate as much as we could handled that evening. Though I was a little careful, I threw caution to the wind that evening.
Day 11 - 1st September. Monday.
Left KL at 3:00pm by rail. Stopped mid-way along journey to be taken by buses to another train because of derailment at Slim River. Had to wait 15 to 20 minutes in buses before it took off. It was a sweat box. People standing with luggage everywhere.
After second train, arrived at Butterworth at midnight. Caught ferry, arrived Penang at 12:30am. Checked in at Oriental Hotel. Soon flaked out!
There were two major events that were not captured in my diary notes, and while the disembarkation was alluded to, I did not mention that we had to take our luggage off the train and walk for a least a kilometre or two along the railway tracks, across the gravel embankment to waiting buses because of an earlier derailment further up the tracks.
There was a procession of people, both locals and foreigners carrying their belongings and walking in the humid Malaysian afternoon. It was dense jungle on both sides of the train tracks and it was just like a scene from a movie, with sweaty men carrying their worldly belongings, women with children in hand and crying babies clinging to their mothers.
Darryl and I simply took this all in, as if we were extras on a movie set.
Butterworth to Penang ferry. [Source: asisbiz.com . Photo by Matthew L. Acred. No copyright infringement is intended]
Having reached Butterworth, the city on the mainland, we finally caught the ferry and arrived on the island of Penang after midnight. The only transport available for us was at the ferry terminal where rickshaw drivers were waiting half asleep for unlikely passengers to arrive.
Darryl and I, and a few arriving passengers happened to break the silence which woke up some of the rickshaw drivers. We did not talk about price, and simply jumped into a rickshaw and told the driver where we wanted to go. Not confirming price was a big mistake, as upon arrival, the driver demanded a sum way beyond, I thought would be a reasonable price. He knew we were tourists, as he was making conversation while taking us there.
I can't remember the price, but his demand for the fare was getting quite loud and animated, especially at that time of night. As I had very little sleep and after a heavy day of travelling, I too started getting loud and animated to the extent that I broke out speaking in Malay, the local language in Malaysia. I had learnt Malay in primary school in Singapore, as all students had to choose a second language. That was over 10 years earlier, however I was able to string a few sentences together which shocked the driver. He stopped immediately! I left Darryl with him and went into the hotel reception and told the male clerk what had happened. In the end it was sorted. We paid what was reasonable. The clerk had mentioned that the driver was trying to take advantage of us as we told him that we were tourists from Australia.
We checked in and I fell asleep as soon as I put my head on the pillow. I don't think we unpacked our suitcases that night.
Day 12 - 2nd September. Tuesday.
After waking up late, we walked around town. At 2:30pm took tour around the island of Penang. Cost $20 Ringgit each. Visited Snake Temple, batik factory and around country side. Returned to hotel at 6:20pm.
Went to Hana Restaurant. Walked to the Esplanade.
Quite brave to have two pit vipers placed on me at The Snake Temple, Penang
The highlight of the tour was our visit to The Snake Temple. We were told the history of the temple by the tour guide, when in 1850 a monk arrived in Penang from China with a statue of a revered Buddhist monk named Chor Soo Kong who had lived one thousand years ago. The migrant monk set out to built a temple in honour of Chor Soo Kong in a clearing by the Sungai Keluang river. After completing the build, snakes, some venomous, from the surrounding jungle began taking shelter in the temple which soon came to be known as The Snake Temple. While there, I was talked into taking a photo with two snakes placed on me, and for a small fee I can say I have lived to tell the tale.
Day 13 - 3rd September. Wednesday.
Woke up late again. After breakfast caught rickshaw to train station to buy tickets for Ipoh. Caught another rickshaw to bus terminal for Ayer Itam. Visited Ayer Itam Pagoda and Penang Hill via cable car. Returned 6:00pm.
After dinner of roti, we walked along Penang Road to see Pasar Malam (Night Market).
Spending time in Penang was very relaxing and we did things at our own pace. After checking the local tourist brochures, we ventured to see what the main attractions had to offer at that time, like the museum, the colonial buildings, mosque, temples and harbour. See picture of Darryl, imitating the statue of Captain Francis Light, founder of the British Colony of Penang, in 1786.
During the evening, it was nostalgic for me to walk along the streets to checkout the stalls at the Penang Night Market, called Pasar Malam in the local Malay language. My family used to do this often while we stayed at our Singapore housing estate.
There were no shopping malls to visit in Penang, unlike Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, and so we simply concentrated on seeing the tourist attractions around the city.
Day 14 - 4th September. Thursday.
Was supposed to catch the 7:30am ferry from Penang and board the 8:30am train to Ipoh. We woke up at 7:30am, caught the 8:10am ferry which docked at 8:30am. Missed the train, but caught the 9:15am train. Arrived Ipoh and checked in at Station Hotel.
Visited Noorhani. Later in the evening we met Cecilia. I had an early night and left Darryl on the balcony of hotel.
When we checked out the route to the town of Ipoh, we learnt that it was 174 km or 2 hours 30 minutes away from Kuala Lumpur by train. It was much further than we expected. It was not on our original itinerary, however during the train journey from Malacca to KL we met a girl named Noorhani. She was well spoken and friendly and told us about her home town Ipoh and that we should visit the Perak Caves there. These were limestone caves and were arguably the most popular tourist attraction in Ipoh, according to Noorhani. There was a Buddhist temple atop a scenic hill which featured a 40 feet high golden Buddha with painted murals. Darryl decided to go and said yes to the invitation to visit Noorhani in Ipoh.
While we were on the train, we were hoping that Noorhani would still be expecting us when we arrived. We were so pleased to see her, even though we were complete strangers when we met her a few days earlier. Darryl and I ended up spending time with Noorhani and her family that whole day. They were gracious to take us out to the Perak Caves and later that day invited us to join them for some street food for dinner. I remember the chicken and beef satay, the accompanying peanut sauce, cut cucumber, onions and rice cakes called katupat. I am sure there were other dishes but the satay was the stand out.
Darryl with Noorhani and family at the entrance of Perak Buddhist Temple Caves
While relaxing at the hotel, chilling out over a few drinks after a busy day of walking up the hills and around the caves, we got chatting with a hotel guest named Cecilia. We shared what we were doing there, as she also told us what brought her to Ipoh. It was a friendly conversation, one that lone travellers would normally have with strangers while on holidays or on an overseas business trip.
Day 15 - 5th September. Friday.
Caught train 11:30am from Ipoh Station to Singapore. Long long ride. Time now 8:50pm and we are still on the train. Estimate time of arrival in Singapore 11:00pm. There was a delay of one and a half hours along the way between Ipoh and KL. Bum's sore from sitting down this long. Actual arrival 11:30pm. Arrived at Mayfair Hotel and found that there were no rooms. They had double booked. Staying for the night at New Ritz Hotel.
Apart from finding out on arrival that the hotel we intended to stay at in Singapore was double booked, the train journey back from Ipoh to Singapore was very long but incident free. Immigration at the Johor border crossing, before getting into Singapore was rather laborious and was not worth writing home about. We had to answer the usual questions of where did we come from, why we were entering Singapore and how long we would be there.
We were fortunate to get a room at the New Ritz Hotel. The only thing luxurious about the hotel was its name. We knew it was not a fancy place when we saw provision for mosquito nets above each bed.
Day 16 - 6th September. Saturday.
Checked in at Metropol Hotel at night. Met Patrick's girlfriend Molly and her friend Susan. Walked down to Orchard Road to meet Zanah and Zacrea. Went to Raffles Hotel and had Singapore Sling. When jalan jalan (walking). Had supper at Peninsula 24 Hour Coffee Lounge.
Patrick and Darryl about to cross Orchard Road, Singapore
It was so nice to see Patrick again. On meeting him this time, he introduced us to his girlfriend Molly and another friend Susan. We carried on as if we knew each other for ages. On our way to the Raffles Hotel we met their other two friends Zanah and Zacrea. It was Darryl's and my plans, that whenever we visited The Raffles, we had to try the famous Singapore Sling, a gin-based iced cocktail which included cherry-brandy, pineapple juice, sparkling water, bitters, lime juice and garnished with pineapple and cherry. We can tick this off the list of things we wanted to do. I even boldly suggested that they next time we visited Singapore we should stay at the Raffles Hotel, if only for one night. We ended the day by visiting another landmark hotel, the Peninsula.
Day 17 - 7th September. Sunday.
Went with Patrick, Molly, Susan and Zanah to Japanese Garden. Swimming pool. Returned to hotel. Later had dinner at People's Park.
Food Centre at People's Park circa 1990's [Source: https://www.peoplesparkcomplex.sg. No copyright infringement is intended]
As I had mentioned earlier, Singaporeans' main hobby is shopping and eating out. To be frank there is no shortage of places to dine as Singapore's street food scene is one of the best in the world. People's Park is in Singapore's Chinatown precinct. I left it to Patrick to order for us, and as a 'local' he knew the best stalls to go to. Later that evening we said our goodbyes to Patrick's friends, including Molly.
Day 18 - 8th September. Monday.
Shopping along Orchard Road. Walked all the way to Change Alley. Left at 11:30am and returned at 7:00pm.
This was the last week of our holidays and Darryl and I needed to do some last minute shopping. We walked to Change Alley which was one of the places to buy those infamous tacky souvenirs and the customary "I Love Singapore" Tee-Shirts. The shopping lanes were crammed with people, mainly tourists, and the vendors were doing a roaring trade.
Day 19 - 9th September. Tuesday.
Shopping again along Orchard Road after first visiting Robinsons at Shenton Way.
It was obvious that shopping was not over for us. We decided this time to shop at the renowned Robinsons department store, as we were more discerning in getting shirts and other apparel for ourselves. I remember the store very well as that was the store where my parents bought our 'winter' clothes before migrating to Australia in May 1970. It is sad to report that the iconic store closed its department store in early 2021 after 163 years in Singapore.
Day 20 - 10th September. Wednesday.
After shopping at People's Park with Patrick we returned to the hotel.
Later we were picked up by Marcus and taken to see Uncle Percy. Darryl and Patrick went about town.
Never one to miss a bargain, we caught up with Patrick again who this time took us to the general merchandise stalls in the People's Park shopping complex. I couldn't remember if we bought anything, as the kilometres of walking along shopping stalls, street food stalls and hearing stall holders offering bargains were beginning to numb my senses.
That evening and over the remaining days in Singapore I had made arrangements to meet my paternal uncles and aunties. As Darryl and Patrick did their own thing, my cousin Marcus picked me up from the hotel I was staying at and drove to our Uncle Percy's house. It was a 20 minute drive.
Here's a little background of my father's family-tree. James (my father) was the youngest of 11 children to George and Lucretia, my grandparents. Both died before I was born. Most of my father's siblings lived in Singapore. Being the youngest, most of my father's nieces and nephews, in other words my cousins, were close to his age and were much older than me, especially the children from my uncles and aunties up the 'family tree'.
Marcus and Noeline with their three children on the left, Aunty Jeannie in the middle, with Darryl and I.
Marcus was the son of my Aunty Jeannie (3rd child of George and Lucretia). Marcus and Aunty Jeannie were close to my siblings and I, including our Uncle Percy (6th child) whom we would see on every Christmas Day as we grew up in Singapore.
Day 21 - 11th September. Thursday.
After staying overnight at Uncle Percy's house, went to see my cousin Joyce (Carvalho), also met Aunty Pat (Uncle Horatio's wife). Later met Aunty Cecil, before returning to hotel.
Joyce was the daughter of my Aunty Connie (4th child of George and Lucretia) whom I did not meet. While I also did not meet my Uncle Horatio (1st child of George and Lucretia), my father's eldest brother who had died years earlier, I was fortunate to meet Horatio's wife Aunty Pat and also my Aunty Cecil (9th child). We had a good time of recollecting fond memories of us my growing up, however many of the stories centred around my father and his time as a youngster. There were lots of laughter and cracking of family jokes, especially from my Uncle Percy.
What also made it more interesting was my close resemblance to my father James, not to mention me also sharing his birthday of May 1st. As his siblings (my uncle, aunties and Marcus) could remember him at my age, the number of times I heard the comment, "Oh, he looks so much like James!" will always be treasured.
A treasured photo of my Uncle Percy (from Left), Aunty Cecil, Aunty Jeannie, Aunty Myra (Percy's wife) and cousin Marcus.
Day 22 - 12th September. Friday.
Last minute shopping. Confirmation of flight back to Perth.
In the evening went back to Uncle Percy's house to see off relatives. Had a good time.
Went later to the local tavern, Bier Kieler.
That evening Darryl joined me to visit my relatives before flying home to Perth. After dinner and enjoying each other's company and stories, we took the customary family photos. There were Aunty Cecil and her children, Marcus, his wife Noeline and daughters, Uncle Percy, his wife Aunty Myra, daughter Judy and husband Carroll and kids and Aunty Jeannie. We said our goodbyes which ended the night for the young ones. A few of us then visited the local beer tavern for a nightcap. It was a night I will always remember as this would be the last time I would see many of them.
Picture of Darryl and I with Uncle Percy and his two small grand-children, Judy his daughter and husband Gerry, with Aunty Cecil's four children to the right.
Day 23 - 13th September. Saturday.
Long wait at airport before flying back to Perth.
Patrick, once again showed up at the hotel and took us to the airport. We said our goodbyes and said that we should try to meet up again in the future. That was 41 years ago and we are yet to fulfil that plan.
Picture from my aircraft window of Singapore city en route back to Australia 1980
On returning to Perth, I received notification that I was being transferred by my employer to a new role in Melbourne. This trip was my last trip together with my friend Darryl. Since leaving for Melbourne in January 1981, I had lost contact with Darryl and had not seen him since he saw me off at Perth's Domestic Airport. I too had not seen or spoken to Patrick since leaving Singapore, however the LinkedIn platform had allowed Patrick and I to stay in virtual contact, though corresponding infrequently over all these many years. I miss their friendship very much.
Writing this essay about my 23-day holiday was a wonderful time-travel of reminiscing the days spent with my 'buddies', remembering the wonderful people I met across the five cities of Singapore, Malacca, Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Ipoh and the memorial events that occurred while Darryl and I were on holidays.
To that end I will cherish every moment, each time I re-read this essay, open my diary notes and flick through the pages of my photograph album.
Epilogue
Since completing this short essay I thought I would give you an update on some of the people and places mentioned in this story.
My school friend Patrick married his girlfriend Molly, whom we also met in Singapore. He is now semi-retired and acts as an Aviation Technical Consultant in the Asia Pacific Region. He has been involved in the aviation industry across the region for many years.
Paul Lim, my school teacher and who took my sisters and I to school has since passed away.
In November 1992, De La Salle School accepted the offer from Singapore's Ministry of Education to relocate. It closed in 1995 and students were relocated. The original building is still standing and was converted into apartments.
Since leaving Singapore after the holiday in 1980, I have not heard from or know about Ralph and Vicky. As a result of this blog I tried to search for their son in Singapore. I had reached out to a person of high probability, however I am yet to receive a response either way.
In 2014 Singapore's Selective En Bloc Redevelopment Scheme (SERS) reaffirmed the intended demolition of 31 housing blocks, surrounding markets and shops in Queenstown. By the end of 2021, the unit my family lived in for many years; 164-F Tangling Halt, Block 30, will be gone forever.
My cousin Maxie and his wife Theresa have since passed away. Juanita migrated to Perth, Australia. Henry sadly passed away a few years ago. Hillary still lives in the family house in the Portuguese Settlement, Malacca.
My Uncle Tone had passed a few years after my photo with him in Malacca.
There is now a bridge which links the Malaysian mainland to the island of Penang. The 13.5km Penang Bridge was inaugurated in 1985. The 126-year old ferry service has since been modernized and operates as water buses, for locals and tourists.
An outreach was made to a person named Noorhani with the same surname as the person Darryl and I met on the train to Butterworth. The person I reached out also lives in Ipoh, however no response has been received to date.
My Aunties Jeannie, Cecil, Myra and Uncle Percy, whom I met on this trip have all since passed away. Percy and Myra had migrated to Australia and lived well into their senior years in Perth.
My cousin Marcus also passed away, survived by his wife Noeline and children. Their families live in Singapore and in Perth, Western Australia.
Aunty Cecil's children, some of whom live in Perth, Western Australia while others are in Singapore.
My cousin Judy, husband Gerry and their children now live in Perth, Western Australia.
While writing this essay, I decided to reach out to my dear friend Darryl, whom I had not seen or corresponded with since leaving Perth for Melbourne in 1981. Not knowing where to start, I thought I best seek my sisters' help who live in Perth as they also knew him during our cricket playing days. They too lost contact with Darryl and the team after I left Perth. Within a few days of my inquiry my sister found a connection, and since a weeks ago, Darryl and I have reconnected. He is married to Deborah and they had just celebrated their 34-year wedding anniversary. They have a daughter and a son, just like me. He is still working, with retirement on the horizon. I have plans to meet up with him in November in 2021 when I will be in Perth. A reunion blog may be in the making. *After reading Part One of this travel log, Darryl reminded me of the 'toilet paper incident'. I thought it was too funny to leave it out and so had managed to work this event in to Part Two of this essay.
This essay is dedicated to all my close friends and relatives, including my father and mother who have passed away over the last 41 years.
“Sweet is the memory of distant friends! Like the mellow rays of the departing sun, it falls tenderly, yet sadly, on the heart.” - Washington Irving
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